As the car is built to spec, power modifications are limited to a few simple bolt-on parts: a Tegiwa Air Intake, Tegiwa Decat Pipe, and HKS Hi-Power Catback Exhaust. In this guise, running the stock ECU, the car made a respectable 225bhp. It’s common for S2000s to fall short of the quoted 240bhp figure, so 225bhp is actually healthy and nothing to be concerned about, especially on our Maha MSR500 dyno, which has a bit of a reputation for being a heartbreaker.

So how do we extract more power from a stock F20C?

The ECU (Electronic Control Unit) is essentially the brain of the vehicle, managing critical systems such as fuel injection, ignition timing, and emission controls to ensure optimal performance. However, like many performance Hondas, the stock S2000 ECU cannot be flashed, which means you’ll need an aftermarket ECU from Haltech.

Fortunately for us, we’re a major distributor of Haltech so we knew just the parts that we needed. The most cost-effective solution is the Haltech Elite 1500, available as a plug-and-play kit for just £1,150. That’s 32% off RRP and only available whilst stocks last, so be quick if you want one! This is the perfect solution for road or track users who want an easy install and fit-and-forget reliability.

However, if you want to unlock the most benefits and features, you’ll want the Haltech Nexus S2 Plug and Play kit, like we’ve fitted to our race car. While the Elite 1500 gives a tuner access to remap the car, the Nexus S2 takes things to the next level with advanced features including:

• Onboard wideband controller
• 2 knock inputs
• Dual drive-by-wire throttle
• Knock control
• 128MB data logging
• Torque management
• Built-in WiFi for ECU control via the Haltech app

You’ll also need the Haltech wideband hardware pack too to make use of that onboard wideband controller.

The Results

Once your chosen Haltech ECU is installed and in the hands of a reputable tuner, we saw gains of 20 horsepower throughout the rev range and a whole lot more drivability due to the power curve being broader from the stock F-Series engine. We entrusted the mapping of our S2000 to renowned Honda tuner Paul West from TPW Engineering, one of the go-to tuners in the Honda community with decades of experience.

As you can see from the graph below comparing stock power to tuned power, the car is making more power and torque throughout the entire rev range. This becomes really noticeable as VTEC kicks in at 4,000rpm on full throttle! Again, another benefit of a custom tune is the ability to engage VTEC at a lower RPM than standard.

If you’re looking to unlock your Honda S2000’s true potential, check out the Haltech Elite 1500 and Nexus S2 ECU at Tegiwa.

The EA888 engine is a masterpiece of engineering, found in an abundance of MQB platform cars from the MK7 Golf GTI and R to the Audi S3 and Leon Cupra. As these cars have become more and more affordable, we have seen more and more on the track, especially the MK7 Golf GTI. That’s why we thought it would be a great idea to gather up a selection of intakes that we sell for this engine and put them through their paces on one of our infamous intake tests.

The easiest way to break the factory intake down is to look at the 3 different parts that it comprises of: Air Box, Inlet Hose and the Turbo Elbow. Each piece of the factory intake can be changed for an aftermarket component, with each piece available at a different price point and offering different benefits. In our test, we use the entire setup available from each brand where available.

The car that we are using for our test is a MK7 Golf GTI. It is stock other than a Unicorn Motor Developments Stage 1 Map and a Clubsport back box exhaust, so pretty representative of what our customers will be driving.

The intakes that we’ll be testing:

• Ramair Proram
• MST
• Racingline R600
• Forge Motorsport
• Eventuri
• GruppeM

The Baseline: Stock Airbox

Before we started bolting on intakes and shoses we needed a benchmark. The car put down 297.4 bhp and 312.9 lbs. ft of torque with a completely stock intake. With an ambient temp of 6°C, the intake temps peaked at at 66°C.

Ramair

The most affordable intake in our lineup is the Ramair which comes in at a wallet friendly £479.48 at the time of writing. The kit includes an open intake with heat shield, a 4″ metal inlet hose and a turbo adapter too. It retains the factory inlet duct at the front. When it comes to providing more noise, this is definitely the loudest on the test.

The Breakdown

1. The Value Kings: MST & Ramair

If you want the best performance-to-price ratio, the MST and Ramair kits are nearly inseparable. Both delivered solid gains of roughly 7-8 bhp. At under £500 for the full kit including the hose and elbow, these are the smart choices for a budget-conscious build. If you want noise, go for Ramair, if you want a bit of extra performance go for MST.

2. The Enthusiast Choice: Racingline R600

There’s a reason the R600 is the go-to in the MQB world. It looks OEM+, offers a choice of foam or cotton filters, and delivered a very respectable 8.8 bhp. While the total kit (including the high-flow elbow and intake hose) climbs to £646.77, the fit and finish are hard to beat.

3. The Showstoppers: Eventuri & Forge

If engine bay aesthetics are as important as the dyno sheet, these are your picks. Eventuri is a highly regarded name in the intake world, and it’ll hold its value when you come to sell it second hand. The Forge intake is arguably the best looking and we reckon that it was the second loudest intake that we tested, perfect for those wanting to hear intake noises!

4. The Powerhouse: GruppeM

The GruppeM system is the undisputed king of this test in terms of raw numbers, delivering a massive 10.2 bhp and 14.5 lbs. ft of torque. However, at £1,436.96, you are paying a significant premium for those extra few horses. We’d be interested to see what this intake is capable of when used in conjunction with an intake hose and turbo elbow adapter.

No matter which you choose, the EA888 platform responds incredibly well to better breathing. Ready to wake up your MQB car up? Check out the full range at Tegiwa!

Whether it’s a K20 in a Civic Type R or a S2000 track build, you’ve got the perfect tool for the job. But what if we told you that a single lap could be all it takes to destroy your engine?

There’s a hidden danger lurking at the bottom of your engine, and it specifically rears its ugly head during track use. It’s called oil starvation.

The Problem: Track Days vs. Your Oil Supply

On the road, your engine’s oiling system works perfectly. But a race track is a different beast entirely. When you’re braking hard into a hairpin, accelerating flat-out down the main straight, and pulling sustained high G-forces through a long, sweeping corner, the oil in your sump is thrown around violently.

This is called oil slosh. During a prolonged, high-G turn on a track, the entire pool of oil can surge to one side of the sump, leaving the oil pickup pipe completely exposed without any oil to pickup.

In that moment, the pump sucks in a pocket of air instead of oil. This is oil starvation, and it’s the number one killer of healthy track day engines.

The Consequences: Instant & Expensive Damage

Losing oil pressure, even for a fraction of a second when you’re north of 7,000 RPM on track, is a recipe for disaster. Without that critical film of lubrication, you get metal-on-metal contact between parts moving at incredible speeds.

The most common victim is the rod bearings. They will be destroyed almost instantly, leading to a “spun bearing.” You’ll hear the dreaded “rod knock,” and from that point on, your track day is over and your engine is toast. The fix? A complete, and very expensive, engine rebuild.

The Solution: A Simple Sump Baffle

Thankfully, there’s a brilliantly simple and effective solution designed specifically for this problem: a sump baffle.

A sump baffle is a metal plate with strategically placed “trap doors” that gets installed inside your oil pan. It works by letting oil flow easily towards the oil pickup but preventing it from sloshing away during the intense G-forces of track driving. It encloses the oil, creating a small, secure reservoir around the pickup pipe, ensuring it can always draw a consistent supply of oil, no matter how hard you hit the apex.

Think of it as an essential piece of safety equipment for your engine. It’s a relatively low-cost, preventative modification that protects you from a massive repair bill.

The Options

When it comes to baffling your sump, you have a few excellent choices, which can be broken down into two main categories: weld-in and bolt-in.

• Weld-in Baffles: This is the traditional and most secure method. Kits like the EP3/DC5 Tegiwa Oil Sump Baffle Kit provide laser-cut aluminum plates that you get professionally welded into your factory sump. It’s a permanent, robust solution perfect for dedicated race cars, but it does require specialist fabrication skills for installation.

• Bolt-in/Drop-in Baffles: In recent years, fantastic none weld options have emerged, making engine protection much easier for the home mechanic, although we would still recommend professional installation. These kits are cleverly designed to be installed without any welding.

For example, the Circuit Hero Bolt-in Baffle is a popular, cost-effective option made from lightweight aluminum that divides the sump into sections to control oil movement. It simply installs between the factory windage tray and the floor of the oil pan.

For an even simpler installation, the Circuit Hero Billet Drop-in Baffle is a CNC-machined plate that literally just drops onto the oil pan floor, held in place once the sump is bolted up. It uses multiple trap doors for excellent oil control with minimal effort to fit.

A more advanced option is the 4 Piston Racing Race Baffle. This comprehensive bolt-in kit offers superior oil control under extreme G-forces in all directions (braking, cornering, and acceleration) and also acts as a windage tray.

Is This a Non-Negotiable for Track Use?

Absolutely. If you just use your car for daily driving, you can get by without one. But a sump baffle becomes a must-have modification the moment you decide to take your car on track.

You NEED one if you:

• Plan to do any track days, from your first-ever session to a full race season.
• Have fitted sticky, track-focused tyres (like Yokohama AD09, Nankang AR-1, etc.) and upgraded suspension, as these mods significantly increase cornering forces and make oil surge worse.

If you’re investing in track time, tyres, and brakes, don’t skip the single most important modification for engine reliability. Protect your VTEC investment and get your sump baffled!

When we designed our B-Series manifold, we knew we had to make something special that would stand the test of time. Here’s what makes our header so special:

• Constructed from premium 304 grade stainless steel
• Features the popular 4-2-1 design with a true 2.5″ collector
• CNC mill-cut flanges for perfect fitment
• Robotic rotation purge TIG welding for superior quality and durability
• Excellent clearance thanks to the 4-2-1 configuration, so your header won’t get beat up on speed bumps
• Significantly lighter than OEM options (the JDM 98spec header weighs 8.2kg and the cast 96spec header weighs a hefty 15kg, while our Tegiwa manifold weighs just 5.9kg!)
• Suitable for all B-series engines including B16A, B16B, and B18C

The Test Car: 1999 Honda Civic Type R EK9

For our test, we wanted to use something special that would really showcase what our manifold can do. We selected one of our staff members cars, a 1999 Honda Civic Type R EK9 featuring the legendary B16B engine.

The test car was relatively stock with just a couple of tasteful modifications:

• Tegiwa carbon intake
• Spoon Sports N1 back box exhaust

This gave us the perfect baseline to isolate the performance gains from our exhaust manifold.

Dyno Results: The Numbers Don’t Lie

Before we fitted the Tegiwa exhaust manifold, we strapped the EK9 to our dyno to get some baseline figures. The car made a very healthy 196.5bhp – already impressive for a well-maintained B16B.

After fitting our exhaust manifold, we ran the car again, and the results speak for themselves:

Before: 196.5 bhp

After: 203.4 bhp

Gain: 6.9 bhp

That’s nearly a 3.5% increase in power from a single bolt-on modification!

For a modification that takes just over an hour or so to install and requires no other major changes (you’ll just need to ensure you have a 2.5″ cat), this represents exceptional value for money. The unique 4-2-1 design not only gives you more power but also helps to boost that signature Honda VTEC crossover sound that we all know and love.

Get Yours Today

Our Tegiwa B-Series Exhaust Manifolds are in stock and ready to dispatch worldwide. Whether you’re building a track weapon, a show car, or just want to get a bit more out of your daily driver, this is one of the best investments you can make for your B-Series Honda.

BMW M3 E9x

Fitment is the same across all E90, E92 and E93 M3 platforms.

Wheel specs: TSW Imatra 18″x10J ET25 5×120

Additional notes: This fitment will require the use of a 3mm spacer and approx. 2 degrees of negative camber.

Wheel specs: TSW Imatra 18″x9.5J ET38 5×120 (Front Only)

BMW M2 F87

Wheel specs: TSW Imatra 18″x10J ET25 5×120 (Aggressive Track Square Fitment)

Tyres: 265/35/18 Continental Sport Contact 7

Suspension: BC Racing ER Series Coilovers

Additional Notes: To run this tyre a minimum of -3º front, and -2º rear is required. Adjustable camber plates will also be needed and potentially aftermarket rear adjustable toe arms. You may require 3-5mm spacers for the front axle but not for the rear. Certain suspension applications will require thicker spacers or more negative camber.

BMW M3 F80

Wheel specs: TSW Imatra 18″x10J ET25 5×120 (Aggressive Track Square Fitment)

Tyres: 265/660/18 Slicks

Suspension: Custom Spec Intrax 1K2

Additional Notes: To run this tyre a minimum of -3º front, and -2º rear is required. The car pictured runs 15mm spacers on the front axle and 5mm spacers on the rear. You can see the full spec list to make this setup work on our Flickr page.

BMW M4 F82

Wheel specs: TSW Imatra 18″x10J ET25 5×120 (Aggressive Track Square Fitment)

Tyres: 265/35/18 Pirelli Trofeo R

Volkswagen Golf GTI/R MK7/MK7.5

Wheel specs: TSW Imatra 18″x8.5J ET43 5×112 (OEM+)

Tyres: 225/40/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 5

Wheel specs: TSW Imatra 18″x9J ET45 5×112 (Track Fitment)

Honda Civic Type R FK8

Wheel specs: 18″x9.5J ET38 5×120 (Aggressive fitment)

Tyres: 265/35/18 Michelin Pilot Sport 5

Suspension: Whiteline 20mm lowering springs

Honda Civic Type R FL5

Wheel specs: 18″x9.5J ET38 5×120 (Aggressive Track Fitment)

Tyres: 265/35/18 Yokohama Advan Neova AD09

Suspension: H&R Lowering Springs

Honda Civic Type R FN2 (Track Fitment)

Wheel specs: 18″x8J ET35 5×114 (Track Fitment) / 18″x8J ET45 also available

Tyres: 225/40/18 Michelin Pilot Sport PS5

Suspension: Tein Street Advance Z

Toyota GR Yaris

Wheel specs: 18″x8.5J ET35 5×114

Tyres: 235/40/18 Nankang AR-1

Ever since the FL5 was initially launched we wanted to replicate are popular GR Yaris Ultimate Intake test with this platform as soon as there was enough released to the market.

Now, it can be a hard decision choosing a new intake, with important factors to consider such as performance, acoustics, and aesthetics, all of which comes with different price tags. To help point you in the right direction, we’ve put together this awesome back-to-back test to compare 8 different intake options for your Civic FL5.

The test…

We’ve lined up a selection of industry leading intakes to fit to our car, which we’ll then run on our Ti Motorsport Maha MSR500 dyno to see if they increase power output. We’ll also make a note of the cost and any other findings that we came across.

The intakes…

We started the test off by looking at the stock system that is fitted to the car from factory. Our FL5 that we are using to carry out the test is completely stock other than a Milltek Non-Resonated Exhaust. The stock system saw the car produce a healthy 334.1 horsepower with 325.4 lbs. ft torque.

K&N Drop-in Panel Filter

Our first test was a K&N panel filter. All that’s required for fitting is simply undoing the lid of the intake and dropping the filter in. These are a budget friendly filter and they can also be cleaned each year when it comes to servicing with a K&N recharger kit.

We found that this filter actually saw a loss in power but an increase in torque. However, intake temps had started to creep up slightly as the car hadn’t had much time to cool down since fitting the K&N panel filter.

Ramair Pro Ram

We then moved onto installing our first intake, the Ramair Pro Ram. This was the cheapest option in our test at a very budget friendly price of only £275 (at the time of testing). This is ideal for anybody looking to gain an increase in induction noise over the standard air box if you’re not too bothered about chasing performance.

The kit was really easy to install and was everything you’d expect from an intake at this price point. It performed as expected with a couple of horsepower gains at peak but what’s interesting is that when compared to stock it provides more power throughout the mid-range.

Pipercross

Next up was the Pipercross intake system. This retails at £50 more than the Ramair and features a foam air filter rather than a cotton one. We were particularly impressed with the heat shield which featured the Pipercross logo cut-out.

However, this kit didn’t perform as well as the Ramair with just 334.7bhp and 325 lbs. ft torque. This could have been down to the rising intake temperatures though, which open intake systems often suffer with.

We were very keen to try and keep the temperatures the same throughout but with several intakes to test in one day, it was difficult to replicate the conditions for each intake.

PRL Motorsports

We then moved onto our first enclosed system of the day, the PRL Motorsports High Volume Intake. We were excited to see how this one was going to perform as PRL claimed that this kit increased airflow by 133%. This was also in addition to a secondary air feed which allowed more air into the box.

At just over £500 it was clear to see where the money had been spent, with a nicely manufactured, heavy-duty plastic air box and PRL branded silicone joiners too. It had clearly had a lot of development too as PRL had accrued lots of data from there testing.

It certainly didn’t disappoint either, making 350bhp and 329.4 lbs. ft torque. As far as value for money goes this was looking like it was going to be the best bang for your buck!

Armaspeed

Armaspeed wasn’t a brand that we were massively familiar with before the FL5 but when we saw their Instagram post saying that they were developing an intake kit, we asked if they wanted to be involved.

Our first impressions of this kit weren’t the best. The carbon on the heat shield was a lovely gloss finish on the underneath but on the top where you can see the most it looked unfinished, like a raw texture. The fit wasn’t particularly great either, with one of the securing points unable to be fastened. The instructions were very detailed though which is always good and they definitely won the merch game, with a lovely tow hook style key chain included with plenty of stickers too!

However, the intake performed well on the dyno with 347.6bhp and 349.6 lbs. ft torque. This result meant it was our best performing open cone intake.

Inifinity Design

Inifinity Design are a relatively new company that specialise in air intake systems so we were excited to see how they faired against some more well known names. The kit that we had been given to test was a pre-production model with various components not quite ready for production yet.

The price gap between this and the other intakes had taken a fair increase with this kit expected to retail at £1,450. They will also be bringing out a carbon inlet turbo tube too which is expected to cost £550.

The carbon finish on this kit looked ace, which is to be expected at this price point. One of the talking points for us was the shape of the filter as it was a hybrid cone style piece, something that we’d not seen before.

The dyno figures weren’t what we were expecting to see at all, with only a 3 horsepower increase over stock. However, when we were taking the kit off the car, we could see that the 3d printed joiner had failed which could have been why the kit didn’t perform as expected. Again, Infinity Design had rushed the kit out and had kindly supplied a pre-production example as they were eager to be involved. (You can read all about the re-test on day 2 a bit further below!)

We fed the results back to Infinity after testing and they asked us if we could ship the kit back to them for inspection, which we did. They discovered that not only had the joiner failed but the gasket in the MAF housing wasn’t the correct fitment either. The guys were kind enough to rectify the problem very quickly and send it us back for another test with the correct parts that will be going into production.

Eventuri

Eventuri are well established when it comes to performance intake kits, with their GR Yaris kit being one of our favourites and best performing too. As soon as we unboxed the FL5 intake, we knew that it was going to be good!

The finish of the carbon was great but we were really surprised to see such a small cone filter (the smallest out of any of the kits). The fit on the car was perfect, with a simple installation following the instructions that can be found online. Eventuri also offer a carbon turbo inlet tube (not something that we’d be testing today), and this retails at £699.60.

The dyno figures speak for themselves too with a peak power figure of 358.9bhp and 341.6 lbs. ft torque.

GruppeM

The GruppeM intake is the most expensive intake that we’d be testing today but it is in fact the only Japanese intake that we’ll be testing too. This can be quite a big thing for JDM enthusiasts!

Now the carbon finish on this intake was stunning with a plain 1×1 style weave. After unboxing it we set about fitting it to the car, and it was apparent how many components there were. This was a surprise considering all the other kits were pretty much assembled already but the level of installation was quite intense. We had to apply things like liquid gaskets and several brackets before we could even get it into a state where it could be fitted to the car.

After much tinkering, we’d got it fitted nicely into the FL5 engine bay. The fit was perfect and it looked awesome too. There had clearly been a lot of development with this kit from the guys at GruppeM, leaving no unused space at all.

The figures were amazing too, with peak power of 364.1bhp and 348.5 lbs. ft torque! It is worth noting that we gave all intakes 3 power runs and on the second run it made 349.9bhp.

Day 2 – GruppeM vs Infinity Design

With Infinity Design being kind enough to resolve the issues with their kit super quickly, we thought that it was only right to give it another chance. Our plan was to take the best performing kit on the first day, the GruppeM, and use this to get a benchmark figure.

We dyno’d the car with the GruppeM intake installed and it made 354.7bhp with 341.5 lbs. ft torque. Another impressive result for the GruppeM!

We then removed the GruppeM and installed the Infinity Design intake. This time we had the correct joiner that will be used in the final production of the kit as well as the correct gasket fitted inside the MAF housing. We also noticed that we hadn’t installed the rubber trim from the OEM airbox onto the top of the intake on day 1, but this probably wouldn’t have made a huge difference.

The dyno results were very impressive, not just because it had made more peak power than the GruppeM and 5.5 lbs.ft more torque, but because when we overlaid the dyno run graphs (see below), the Infinity Design intake was 10 horsepower up all the way through the mid-range. This is the part of the power band which you’ll spend the most time in and will feel the most noticeable.

Conclusion

First and foremost, it’s important to remember that these figures from the dyno aren’t the be all and end all and they should be taken with a pinch of salt. We saw lots of variations from run to run, which is very common on the K20C engine. We have only used the figures from the best runs.

There is definitely an intake for everybody here though which is great that they all have their own place respectively. A lot of it will come down to budget too with the price points being massively different between the cheapest intake and the most expensive. However, if you’re looking for an intake just to give a more noticeable intake sound, then the budget options represent really good value for money.

• K&N drop-in panel filter:  https://www.tegiwa.com/products/k-n-performance-panel-air-filter-honda-civic-type-r-fl5-23
• Ramair Pro Ram filter: https://www.tegiwa.com/products/ramair-proram-induction-kit-honda-civic-type-r-fl5-22
• Pipercross: https://www.tegiwa.com/products/pipercross-induction-system-honda-civic-type-r-fl5-23
• PRL Motorsports: https://www.tegiwa.com/products/prl-motorsports-high-volume-intake-system-honda-civic-type-r-fl5-22
• Infinity Design: https://www.tegiwa.com/products/infinity-design-carbon-intake-system-honda-civic-type-r-fl5-23
• Eventuri: https://www.tegiwa.com/products/eventuri-carbon-fibre-intake-system-honda-civic-type-r-fl5-23
• GruppeM: https://www.tegiwa.com/products/gruppem-ram-air-intake-system-honda-civic-type-r-fl5-22

Finally, you can watch the whole test on our YouTube channel. You can find all the intakes from this test and many more performance parts for you Civic FL5 over on our website too.

When we took delivery of our Honda Civic Type R FL5 way back in January, we were told that only 140 units would make there way to UK shores in 2023. However, that has proved not to be true, with owners still taking delivery of their FL5s everyday.

With more and more of the 11th generation Civic on the road, naturally, enthusiasts are keen to put their stamp on them to make it their own. So, it’s about time that we wrote a modification guide on the most powerful Civic Type R ever produced! In this comprehensive guide, we’ll delve deep into the world of FL5 modifications, unlocking the secrets to enhancing its aesthetics, power, and handling, while preserving the core values that make it such a beloved vehicle.

For those of you that are reading this with a view to purchase a FL5, then it’s worth reading on, as we’ve already listed the Genuine Honda extras from the UKDM, USDM and JDM markets on our website. Which means that if you’re specifically waiting for a car with a certain extra, then don’t worry, as you can purchase from us and then retrofit it yourself!

If you’re pushing your FL5 to its limits on track, then you’ll be wanting to upgrade the brakes. We have various different Motul Brake Fluids available, which will eliminate boiling the OEM fluid.

Whilst you’re upgrading the brake fluid it’s worth swapping out your OEM brake lines to an aftermarket solution. This will remove the ‘spongy’ feeling from the brake pedal, and make braking feel smoother and stronger. We have options available from both EBC and Spoon Sports.

PBS ProRace pads are made by racing drivers for racing drivers, working at high temperature with excellent pedal feel , consistent braking with low dust and great rotor life. These are one of  the best bang for buck pads on the market giving great consistency, longevity and bite at both hot and cold temperatures.

We also have a couple of options available from Ferodo. The DS2500 are our pad of choice for everyday/fast road use, as they aren’t too aggressive and don’t produce too much dust either. If you’re thinking of using your car on track then it’s worth going for the DS3000 instead.

For those of you that want a bit more ‘bite’ out of the brakes, then it’s worth upgrading your brake pads to something more suitable. RP-1 and RP-X (race and track) brake pads will offer a lot more performance.

A brake pad that we recommend and use on most of our race cars, is the Pagid RSL29. The RSL29 features very good modulation and release characteristics, making it ideal for club racing and track days.

If you want to keep it JDM, then Spoon Sports offer uprated brake pads too.

To keep your brakes cool on track, it’s worth considering a set of EBC Titanium Front Brake Pad Shims. These neat components reduce heat transfer through the pads to the caliper by around 90°F!

A relatively simple upgrade that will also change the way your FL5 sounds, is to install an aftermarket intake. There is a range of intakes already available with more being released very soon (including Eventuri)!

We’ve already tested the Ramair Proram Induction Kit on our FL5 and was very impressed with the performance that it had to offer, especially for the price. Being an open intake, the sound is also great too!

Pipercross offer a Panel Air Filter and Induction System Kit for the FL5. The panel filter is a great upgrade, especially when it’s time for a service. The Induction System Kit replaces the OEM airbox, and Pipercross claim that they have seen gains of 10bhp.

If you want to keep things JDM, then you’ll want to consider the GruppeM Carbon Intake. This kit is designed to draw in the maximum volume of ambient air whilst maintaining filtration reliability. It’ll also look fantastic once you’ve popped the bonnet too!

We’ll soon be conducting our very own intake test for the FL5, similar to the GR Yaris one that we carried out. We’ll then be able to see for ourselves what gains each kit offers. Stay tuned as we’ll be carrying this test out before the end of 2023!

If you want to unlock some noise from your FL5, then you’ll want to upgrade the exhaust. Our Type R was actually used as the development car for Milltek Sport. We ended up with the Milltek Sport Non-Resonated Catback with Cerakote Black Tips. Check out the video of this, below.

Cobra Sport are another exhaust option to consider. They have a range of options available, including a Valved Front Flex-Back, Valved Cat/GPF Back and a Full Valved Turbo Back System. Cobra also offer a Sports Cat and Decat Downpipe if you want to unlock even more power!

We also have two iterations of the Kakimoto exhaust listed too. The Class KR exhaust keeps the OEM styling with 3 tips and is aimed at road users. The GT1.0Z Exhaust is perfect for those who want to squeeze all the performance out of their FL5, as not only will it offer better performance, the muffler weighs just 7.4kg; half the weight of the OEM muffler!

First and foremost, it’s important to talk about regular servicing of your FL5 engine. Ideally, you’ll want to change the engine oil and filter before a track day to ensure that the engine runs as it should. We recommend sticking with a Genuine Honda Oil Filter, so you can expect a perfect fit and performance.

When it comes to engine oil, depending on what you’re using the car for, you can stick with the Genuine Honda 0w-20 Engine Oil, or opt for an aftermarket option from the likes of Motul.

If you’re planning on getting your FL5 remapped at some point, then it’s worth considering an uprated BOV. The Turbosmart Kompact Supersonic BOV is an ideal solution to replace the factory plastic unit, and is capable of handling higher levels of boost. It’s constructed of billet aerospace grade aluminium with high temperature seals and is a direct fit upgrade.

For those that want to send their FL5 to the moon, then you’ll likely be considering some more major modifications. Skunk2 Racing have released their Ultra Stage 1 & 2 camshafts. Their Stage 1 cams, are a true drop-in cam that is compatible with stock valve springs and retains stock idling characteristics. You can expect to see gains of around 25-40bhp throughout the power band with these.

Looking for a more serious cam? Skunk2’s Stage 2 camshafts unleashes the full potential of the K20C1. Expect to see gains of around 40-60bhp with these! The valve train will need upgrading with these, but Skunk2 have you covered with their Ultra Valve Spring and Spring Base Kit. We would recommend getting a tune from a reputable tuner when upgrading cams.

There isn’t too many options available yet when it comes to upgrading the suspension of the FL5. We know that the Yellow Speed Racing coilovers from the FK8 will also fit onto the FL5. Their Dynamic Pro Sport kit are perfect for both the road and occasional track and offer excellent value for money too! It’s worth considering purchasing the EDC Cancellation Kit too which prevent any error codes or light from the electronic dampening control system.

Nitron have also produced coilovers for the FL5. They have three different options available; RoadSport, NTR R1 and NTR R3.

If you don’t want to go down the coilover route, there are a couple of options for lowering springs. The first of which are Spoon Sports Progressive 20mm Springs. We plan on installing these to our car in the very near future.

Renowned manufacturers of lowering springs, Eibach, have a couple of options too, with kits for USDM and UK cars respectively. With the UK kit, you can expect to see a drop of 15mm at the front and 10mm at the rear. The US kit will see the car lowered by 15mm at the front and 20mm at the rear.

The Civic FL5 boasts an awesome interior as standard, however, we offer a huge range of upgrades to make it even better! Honda have a range of accessories, which are available from various different markets of the world, however, we have listed them all on our website.

Some of the accessories that will stand out the most are the carbon panels and trims. These definitely improve the cabin aesthetic and feature a lovely red weave in the carbon too!

We also upgraded our gear knob, opting for the JDM Red Leather Shift Knob, rather than the OEM metal unit.

A fairly costly, but iconic upgrade are the JDM Red Floor Mats. These are a cut above the rest in terms of quality of material and plushness and are likely to hold their value for years to come.

You can check out all the Genuine Honda extras that we went for in our latest YouTube video!

We offer a range of styling parts, including everything from Genuine Honda to Mugen. One of the options we have gone for on our FL5 is the Genuine Honda Carbon Wing. This really helps to make the rear of the car a lot more aggressive, as well as being lighter than original spoiler too.

If you really want to make a statement, then check out the range of carbon parts that APR Performance have to offer. They have a full Aerodynamic pack consisting of a Front Splitter, Rear Bumper Spats and Side Skirts. They also offer Canards, a Radiator Cooling Plate and a GT-250 and GTC-300 Adjustable Rear Wing too.

We’ll soon be listing the Maxton Designs catalogue for the FL5, so make sure you watch this space to see when they become available.

Whilst aftermarket wheels can be chosen based on their appearance, there’s also the advantage of them being lighter than the OEM counterparts (in most cases). We’ve written a separate blog specifically on FL5 Wheel Fitment, which you can check out below.

Honda Civic Type R FL5 – Wheel Fitment Guide

Our FL5 has benefitted from a couple of sets of aftermarket wheels so far. The first set we tried were Motegi MR145’s. These were 18″ x 9J ET45 in Satin Black with Yokohama AD09 265/35/19 semi-slick tyres.

We’ve recently just swapped these out for some TSW Imatra’s. These are 18″ x 9.5J ET38 and are also finished in Satin Black with the same tyres as before. We finished this setup by utilising a set of Mugen Black M14 x 1.5 Wheel Nuts.

If you’d like to learn more about modifying your Civic FL5 or need any advice, then please get in contact with us and we’d be more than happy to help!

The car

Let’s start by taking a look at the EP3 that we’ll be using for the test. As far as modifications go, it’s largely stock, with just a few simple bolt-on modifications to help the car breathe a bit better. We’ve got the following items:

• Tegiwa Carbon Air Box
• Tegiwa Exhaust Manifold
• Tegiwa 70mm Catback Exhaust

We put the car through 3 power runs to ascertain a benchmark power figure. The car produced 227hp, 226hp and 225hp on each run. This is a very healthy figure for an EP3, especially one that has done over 150k miles.

Pre ITB Tuning

A benefit of this ITB kit from Jenvey is that it doesn’t require any supporting modifications other than a standalone ECU. The ECU of choice for this was the Haltech Elite 1500 with Plug and Play Adaptor Harness. The Haltech Elite 1500 benefits from cutting edge technology unlike other ECU’s on the market with features including traction control, launch control, anti-lag, staged fuel injection and an abundance of advanced engine protection parameters. A Bosch Haltech 4.9 Wideband was also installed to monitor air/fuel ratios when tuning.

We’ve also used a Haltech Multi-function CAN gauge as when using this ECU, you lose the temperature gauge. However, with this gauge you can display a multitude of different parameters such as:

• Air/Fuel Ratio
• Coolant Temperature
• Battery Voltage
• Oil Pressure
• Throttle Position
• & much more…

With the ECU installed, we then strapped the car to our dyno for a session of tuning with renowned Honda tuner, Paul West from TPW Engineering. After a morning of power runs, the final figure that the car produced was a mighty 237.2 horsepower. Pretty impressive for a car with a standard intake manifold!

Jenvey Developments

The car then headed off to Jenvey Dynamics for a few weeks as they got busy developing the kit. If you’re familiar with ITB’s then you’ll have no doubt already heard of Jenvey. They design, develop and manufacture ITB’s for a vast array of performance vehicles. Their focus is on performance, reliability, lightness and value which is all backed up by their motorsport success.

Jenvey’s goal was to produce a set of ITB’s for a standard Civic EP3 that didn’t require any major modifications. The guys went through a few different iterations to get the final design nailed as the clearance in the engine bay is quite tight. After a few weeks of trial and error they managed to get it spot on!

As you can see, the kit bolts straight on. There are no modifications required to any of the pipes, pulleys, sensors or the fuel rail in order to fit them. The manifold itself is curved in order to clear the auxiliary pulley. The kit is finished off with an ITG foam filter that fits snuggly in the engine bay, maximising all possible space.

Post ITB Tuning

With the car safely back at Tegiwa HQ there was a few things that needed to happen before the car could be driven. The first of which was to install a set of bigger injectors. Strictly, you don’t have to upgrade your injectors but it is something that our tuner, Paul West, highly recommends otherwise the standard injectors will be running too close to there full duty cycle.

Our injectors of choice were Genuine Honda RDX 410cc injectors with Toyota clips. These are 100cc bigger than the standard injectors so are ideal for this setup. You’ll also need to re-pin the new injector plugs with the original pins.

With the car left in the capable hands of Paul on the Ti Motorsport dyno for the day, we were super excited to see what gains the ITB’s had given. Once the tuning was complete, we carried out a power run to see how much power the kit had given us.

A run of 251.1bhp with 161.1 lbf.ft meant the kit had improved performance with an additional 13.8bhp! Of course, dyno figures aren’t the be all and end all of everything, it’s largely about the experience on the road. As we all know, there’s not much that comes close to the noise of a set of ITB’s screaming all the way to 9,000rpm which is a huge factor when it comes to deciding what option to go down when tuning your K20.

Our observations that we did notice when the car was on the dyno is that the more air we could feed the ITB’s with, the better it performed. For example, the car made even more power without the foam filter installed! For those wanting to chase numbers out of these kits, then feeding the ITB’s with a custom air feed through the grill or a vented bonnet might result in even more gains.

This kit is also a great option for anybody to look at switching their current N/A setup too. If you already have an aftermarket intake manifold and airbox then these can be taken off, sold, and replaced with the ITB’s. You’ll just need a standalone ECU, if you haven’t got one already, and a map from a reputable tuner. We also strongly recommend upgrading the injectors too if you haven’t already!

Fitting to an Integra DC5

We can now confirm, with thanks to Tegiwa sponsor Jamie Price, that this kit also fits to the Integra Type R DC5 with a couple of small minor adjustments to the kit. The first of which is that the trumpet nearest the power steering pump needs trimming down. This then enables you to squeeze the air filter between the trumpet and the pump.

The second adjustment is that the air filter backing plate, the locking tab clip and red plastic trim need trimming slightly to ensure that it doesn’t foul the power steering pump.

Jamie also mentioned that he de-pinned the two outer throttle position sensor wires and swapped them around. This enabled the car to run on his Hondata K-Pro ECU. Of course, we’d also recommend a remap from a reputable tuner once the kit is fitted to ensure that the ITB’s can operate at the full potential.

Like what you see? You can grab a set of these plug & play ITB’s now on our website!

https://www.tegiwaimports.com/jenvey-plug-play-itb-s-individual-throttle-bodies-honda-civic-type-r-ep3-k-series.html

As always, if you prefer to watch then you can check out our detailed video that follows the process on our YouTube channel.

Thanks

We’d like to give a big thanks to the following companies and people for making this test happen:

• Jenvey Dynamics for developing this kit
• Paul West from TPW Engineering for tuning the car
• Kyer Beddoes for lending us his car
• Haltech
• You – for reading our blogs and watching our videos!

Honda Civic FN2 Buying Guide

Intake

Whether you’re looking to unlock a bit more horsepower or simply want to hear that NA induction roar, there are a plethora of options available. The best bang-for-buck options are the Tegiwa induction kits. The first of which is a proven solution in the 750MC FNduro series, with the Tegiwa Air Intake with Battery Relocation Kit. Due to the battery being relocated, this allows for the filter to sit directly below the headlight to improve air flow.

If you’re not a massive fan of an open intake, then check out the Tegiwa Carbon Airbox. Not only does this give you a better intake noise but the carbon fibre adds improves the aesthetics under the engine bay.

A popular intake that we’ve seen on many FN2’s over the years is the HKS RSK Racing Suction Kit. This is one of the loudest intakes on the market and features an iconic HKS mushroom filter as well as a heat shield to keep hot air away from it.

Money no object? You’ll be wanting the Gruppe M ram air system. Complete with a premium carbon fibre housing, this kit offers an OEM type finish under the bonnet and utilises the factory intake hose.

Exhaust

When it comes to improving the sound of your FN2, then an exhaust system is the first port of call. If you’re looking to improve sound but aren’t necessarily chasing horsepower then a catback system should suffice. The Tegiwa 70mm catback is a popular choice, offering a fantastic exhaust note whilst also offering a 5kg weight saving over standard.

Another popular option is the Milltek Sport 3″ catback exhaust. These have been designed to mate up to any stock fitment manifold and are used in the Civic Cup. These are available with a decat or race cat, but it’s worth noting that your car won’t pass a UK MOT with a decat.

There are plenty of other catback exhaust options too from the likes of Fujitsubo, Martelius and Cobra Sport.

If you’re looking to maximise performance from your exhaust, then not only will you want a catback system but you’ll also want an exhaust manifold. The Tegiwa 4-2-1 Exhaust Manifold replaces the restrictive cast item and improves exhaust gas flow. It also replaces the catalytic converters which results in a much improved throttle response.

Engine

The next step of extracting more power out of the K20Z (for those that want to stay naturally aspirated) is to upgrade the intake manifold. The go to option on the FN2 is an RRC manifold. These are found on the JDM FD2 Type R as standard. This will bolt straight onto the car without modification, however, once fitted, the car will need mapping. You can also opt for a 70mm version too.

When upgrading the manifold it’s also possible to upgrade the throttle body too. The Honda J35 Throttle Body features a 2mm bigger bore and is an excellent upgrade over OEM.

The next quest for more power will see you installing a set of aftermarket camshafts from the likes of Skunk2 Racing. In our Ultimate Drop-in Cam Test we found the Skunk2 DIC’s to give nearly a ten horsepower gain!

Of course you’d need an aftermarket ECU to be able to map the car with these modifications. Hondata’s Flashpro ECU is the most popular application for the FN2 and allows the car to be professionally tuned.

There is always the option of going down the forced induction route with a supercharger or turbocharger. You’ll need to have deep pockets though as going down this path isn’t cheap and a lot of upgrades will be needed to get it running correctly.

Suspension

Throughout every generation of Type R, they have been lauded for their handling characteristics. With some worthwhile upgrades in the suspension department you can unlock a whole new level of handling with your FN2.

A cheap and worthwhile upgrade that not only will improve handling but also improve the stance of your FN2 is a set of lowering springs. There’s plenty of choice available from reputable companies including Eibach and Tein.

If you want to go one better than springs, then a performance coilover will replace both the spring and shock. This could be a worthwhile move depending on the condition of your OEM suspension, especially on higher mileage cars. We’d recommend going for a set of Yellow Speed Racing Dynamic Pro Sport Coilovers. These are a tried and tested product here at Tegiwa as we’ve been using these for a number of years on our cars. Not only do they offer better handling characteristics but they also retain a good level of comfort on the road too.

Another worthwhile upgrade is a Whiteline Rear Anti-Roll Bar. The FN2 didn’t have one as standard due to the rear beam configuration. This will reduce body roll in corners and increase the suspensions stiffness which’ll greatly improve handling.

Brakes

If you’re pushing your FN2 to its limit on track, then you’ll be wanting to upgrade various braking components. With various Motul Racing Brake Fluids available, we recommend using one of their RBF’s to improve braking power and uniformity, the same fluid that we use in our Time Attack Honda NSX.

Whilst you’re upgrading the brake fluid its worth swapping out your OEM brake lines to an aftermarket solution. This will remove the ‘spongy’ feeling from the brake pedal, and make braking feel smoother and stronger. We have options available from both HEL and Goodridge. If you’re looking for a bit more bite from the brakes, then check out the range of Ferodo pads we offer with options for road and track available.

For those that want to really take stopping power to a new level, then look no further than a Yellow Speed Racing BBK. These kits are used on 750MC FNduro cars and look the business!

Drivetrain

If you’ve read our buying guide, then you will know that all FN2’s manufactured before 2010 didn’t come with an LSD. Therefore it’s worth installing an LSD as it’ll unlock a tonne more grip and stop those one wheel peels. If you’re using your Civic on the road then we’d be going for a MFactory Helical LSD. However, if you’re more serious about using it on the track then a stage 1 race pack is worth speccing.

If your car is aimed solely for track use then you’ll be wanting a MFactory Plated Differential. This offers smooth and consistent distribution of power to the wheels and maximises your FN2’s potential to the fullest.

A quick shifter can make a whole world of difference when it comes to improving driving experience. Our Tegiwa Short Shifter is a modified version of the OEM unit and decreases throw between gears by approximately 30%.

If you up the budget you’ll be able to get an adjustable shifter from the likes of Acuity or Hybrid Racing. These aren’t cheap, but the quality is second to none and once you’ve installed it, you’ll begin to wonder why you never bought one sooner!

To further improve shift response, a cheap solution is a HEL clutch damper bypass. This can remove the spongy feel that is common on the FN2 and should also fix the delay when changing gears quickly. If your car is completely standard then you’ll need the damper bypass with clutch line, however, you can purchase just the bypass on it’s own too.

Wheels

Choosing a set of aftermarket alloys won’t just improve your cars appearance but often they weigh a lot less than the OEM counterparts. The standard OEM alloys that feature on most FN2’s are 18″ x 7.5J ET55 and weigh a mighty 11.8kg each! Some FN2’s came with optional 19″ Rage alloys that were also 7.5J ET55 and were believed to be 1kg lighter than the 18’s. The 18’s featured 225/40/18 tyres whilst the 19’s came with 225/35/19’s.

We wouldn’t recommend exceeding 20mm wider on the front and rear axle with the stock wheel/tyre combination without running into arch rubbing issues. Therefore, we have put together a few ideas of what will bolt straight onto the FN2.

Using the filters on Alloy Wheel Shop, there’s 170 different wheel options when sticking with a 18×7.5J width but potentially lowering the offset down to ET35. You could however opt for a smaller diameter like a 17″ wheel too. Here’s a few of our favourites:

Enkei RPF1

Is there anything that an Enkei RPF1 doesn’t look good on? We couldn’t not include this in our guide and they offer a tidy weight saving of 4.13kg per wheel too!

Japan Racing JR11

The JR11 is an aggressive looking wheel that’s sure to add some attitude to the FN2. These aren’t going to break the bank either which is always good news. Available in ET40 these will fit 15mm wider than standard.

WedsSport RN-05M

5 spoke wheels look great on the FN2 and WedsSport RN-05M are one of the nicest looking 5 spoke wheel designs that we have to offer. With an offset of ET45 you’ll achieve a 10mm wider stance than OEM.

If you’re looking to maximise grip by fitting a wider tyre to your alloy, then increase the width of the alloy to an 8J and you’ll be able to go for a 235 wide tyre. As you’ve increased the width of the wheel, the maximum offset we’d recommend is ET42 to stay within the 20mm maximum spacing. Here are our favourite 8J wheels:

2Forge ZF6

The great thing about 2Forge wheels is that you can choose a custom offset for your wheel. The ZF6 is available from ET0 to ET45, so you can tailor the fitment to meet your requirements. As we’ve said though, we wouldn’t recommend going lower than ET42 just to avoid any rubbing on the arches.

Rota Force

The wheel of choice for our very own Civic FN2 race car are Rota Force’s. However, these are only available in 17″ and at a low offset of ET35, which exceeds our recommendation. Due to the amount of camber that we run on our car, we don’t have a problem fitting them but it could cause many issues for road going cars.

WedsSport TC-105X

When it comes to strong, lightweight wheels, you don’t have to look any further than the TC-105X. Used on both our Honda NSX builds, the flagship WedsSport wheel is one of the lightest out there. You’ll save 4.43kg per wheel whilst getting a wider tyre too, what’s not to love!?

If you’re on a budget and want to maximise the stance of your FN2 but can’t necessarily warrant new wheels, then you could go for a set of wheel spacers. At just under £100 for a pair we have a choice of both 15mm and 20mm spacers.

If you’d like to learn more about modifying your Civic FN2 or simply need advice, then please get in contact with us and we’d be more than happy to help! Thank you for reading and we’ll see you in the next one.

Still dividing opinions to this day, the FN2 featured super modern styling and looked way ahead of its time. Note the triangular shaped exhaust tips, door handles and central digital display.

The FN2 went on sale here in the UK back in 2007 and utilises a very similar engine and transmission found in the previous generation Type R. Look under the bonnet and you’ll find a 2 litre, 4 cylinder naturally-aspirated K20Z which puts out just shy of 200 horsepower, 198 to be exact.

As with the majority of VTEC engines, there isn’t much happening at the bottom of the rev range. Go north of 6k revs though and this is where the Type R FN2 comes into a world of its own. VTEC kicks in earlier than the EP3 at 5.4k to aid drivability and you’ll be able to send the needle all the way to 8,000rpm!

Specifications & Special Editions

When browsing the classifieds you’ve probably seen Type R and Type R GT. The 2008 facelift GT model got introduced in 2008 and benefits from the following additions:

• Auto wipers
• Auto lights
• Dual Climate Control (non-GT models don’t have AC)
• Refrigerated* Glove Box
• Fog Lights
• Electronic Folding Mirrors
• Cruise Control

*This was merely a vent that allowed the AC to blow cold air into the glove box.

The facelift version of the FN2 also saw the additions of HID self-levelling headlights with washers, an AUX connection as standard, a tyre pressure monitoring system as well as improved sound deadening. The easiest way to spot if a car is facelift or pre-facelift is to look for the washers on the front bumper.

In 2008, Honda released the FN2 in the iconic Championship White. These came with white wheels as well as limited-slip differential. All cars manufactured after 2010 came equipped with a LSD too. 2010 also saw the Mugen M200 special editions released, these were finished in Championship White and also came with 19″ alloys, Mugen front and rear splitters, Mugen boot lid badge and a numbered Mugen plaque inside the cabin near the gear shifter.

M200 FN2’s shouldn’t be confused with the end of the line Type R Mugen which left the factory with a mighty 237 horsepower thanks to its upgraded pistons, cams and ECU. These are rarer than hens teeth though, with only 20 examples being built by Mugen UK.

Common Problems

Engine

We all know that the K20 is a bulletproof engine, if looked after properly. However, with these cars now becoming very affordable, meaning owners can pick them up, abuse them and sell them on again, good service history is crucial. Good practice when buying any second hand car is to check the oil condition and level.

With any K20, it’s beneficial if the timing chain and tensioners have been replaced, especially if it’s a higher mileage car. You can factor in around £650 to get this job done if hasn’t already. Uneven valve clearances can be an issue on these engines, if they’ve not been checked in the past 20,000 miles you might hear a tappy sound on startup. The injectors can be quite noisy on the FN2, so don’t get this noise mixed up with noisy tappets. You can always use this as a good point to barter on!

Under the bonnet you might notice that the wrinkle red paint is flaking off the rocker cover. This is a common issue on K-Series engines, but if it looks fresh then this is a good sign that the owner has taken care of it.

The PCV valve is prone to blocking up. If you can hear a crackling sound at idle then chances are you’ll need to replace it. A good test to see if it’s on its way out is to pinch the vacuum hose that comes out of the centre of the intake manifold and if the crackling stops then it’ll need replacing.

Transmission

The transmission is robust and offers slick gear changes when working properly. The shifter has been moved down to a more conventional position from where it was located in the EP3. Some cars struggle with crunching when entering second gear. Early cars struggle with selecting third gear as the synchros wear, which makes the gear feel notchy, in some cases it can even come out of third gear. The clutch should feel light. If it feels heavy then it’s probably time to replace it. Finally, the gearbox can whine at the biting point, especially when cold, this is normal for the FN2 and nothing to worry about.

Suspension

The FN2 featured a traditional rear torsion beam and trailing arm setup which some enthusiasts saw as a step backwards. After driving a plethora of EP3’s and FN2’s over the years, we can confirm that this setup doesn’t hamper the fun! As these cars get older, the beams are known to rust and in severe cases they can crack and break. Not ideal. This is definitely something to look out for as a new Genuine Honda rear beam will set you back £1,000.

The front subframe is known to produce a clicking noise when under hard acceleration or braking. This is simply a build up of dirt between two sections in the sub frame. Although this isn’t an issue it can be pretty annoying.

Exterior

Moving onto the exterior of the FN2, the most common colour seen on UK roads is Milano Red. Often the paint will have deteriorated over the years leaving certain panels, especially the roof, Milano Pink. Lacquer peel is common as well as cloudy headlights too.

You’d be hard pushed to find a car that doesn’t suffer from a stone chipped front end unless it’s had some paint work carried out. This is due to the soft paint and the nose sitting close to the ground.

The split level spoiler at the rear is somewhat of a hinderance as it obscures your view when reversing. The lights below the spoiler can often suffer from a build of water, thus leaving green moss around the seals.

As with any Honda, rust is a very common problem. Boot floors tend to corrode and so does the roof as the rubber moulding at the top of the windscreen can cut into the paint. Pre-2008 cars suffer from rusty doors as the rubber seal at the top of the door collect water. This was revised on the facelift models. Check the condition of the carpets for any moisture and the A, B and C pillars too.

The power fold mirrors can fail which can cause slow operation or complete failure in which they just won’t work. Previously, the cure for this was to replace the entire mirror assembly until Honda sold the shut off device (SOD) separately. There is one SOD in each mirror, so if both mirrors are failing then this will cost just over £100 to fix.

Interior

Step inside the FN2’s cabin and you’ll find big, supportive seats. The bolsters on these are often worn and can sometimes be split, especially if the owners are larger people. Build quality seemed to take a back seat on the 8th generation Civic, with many owners reporting rattles from the interior. Headlining rattles are usually caused by loose cables or clips but dashboard rattles are much harder to diagnose so this is something you might just have to learn with.

Check to see if the air conditioning is working (don’t forget non-GT models don’t have AC). If it isn’t, then the relay might need replacing. This isn’t an expensive part and costs £20, but definitely worth bearing in mind.

How much to pay?

If you’re looking at getting yourself into an FN2, then now is probably the time to buy as there are definitely some bargains to be had. We think prices will slowly begin to rise in the next few years as more get written off or meet their demise due to rust, high miles etc.

Up to £1,500

You might be able to get into an early For cars that need plenty of TLC you’ll be looking at somewhere around the £1,500 mark. To give you an idea, we picked up an FN2 last year for £1,500, however it’s engine had gone bang!

Up to £4,000

Expect to get a Type R that’s done over 100,000 miles in not the best condition. Although we’d always buy a car based on condition and service history rather than mileage there will be a few ropey motors at this end of the market. You may find some sub 100k cars, however, these are likely to have been categorised. This budget is perfect for those looking for a track or race car.

£4,000 – £8,000

This is what you’ll need to spend to find a cleaner example of an FN2 that has been well looked after. You’ll probably start to see sub 100k cars as you increase the budget as well as the majority being GT models. Expect to find some cars with modifications too i.e. suspension upgrades, exhausts, intakes, remapped etc. Head to the top of this price bracket and you’ll find 2010+ models that feature an LSD as standard.

£8,000-£12,000

Spend north of £8k and you’ll be getting yourself a clean and standard relatively low-mileage example of an FN2. The top end of this bracket will see you into Championship White edition territory and possibly even a M200 if you’re lucky.

£12,000+

To guarantee a clean M200 FN2 you’ll be spending £12k+, especially as these become rarer and rarer. Good examples of modified forced induction cars will also command a premium as a lot of money will have been spent to get them to this level. For those with a blank cheque book on the hunt for Mugen Type R, firstly, you’re going to have to do some searching as these don’t come up for sale very often. If and when they do hit the classifieds you’ll definitely be looking at a keen price tag of £25,000+!